Holiday in Ho Chi Minh
Sunday, March 30th, 2008Do you know that Vietman actually has its own opera house? Really!
But as to whether there’s an active company producing operas, that’s another question altogether and its not like I haven’t Googled it. This opera house was built by French colonials in the 19th century and now operates as a theatre for rent. Currently there is a Vietnamese musical being rehearsed, but the term ‘Opera House’ stuck even if no opera is being produced today.
Compared to the sterile-clean Singapore, Ho chi Minh is still very much a city in development. Many big international brands have yet to invade within its walls, so travellers hooked on Starbucks and MacDonald will be disappointed (but KFC has already made inroads into the city). Upon leaving the airport, you will be struck by the enormous number of motorcycles on the road: taking up to 80% of vehicles, motorcycles are by far the most popular mode of transport in Ho Chi Minh, and the roads are filled with swarms of them. As our tour guide remarked, “last time rush hour always traffic jam, now every hour is rush hour!”Exhaust is the pervading scent that fills the streets, and traffic signs are merely recommendations, not hard and fast rules to follow. We watched in disbelief as a motorcycle crossed the road barrier and went against the traffic to reach the pavement on the other end. To cross, just boldly step onto the roads trying not to scream like a wussy tourist; the motorbikes will simply swerve around you as you cross. I felt like Moses parting the red sea of motorbikes. After 2 days of doing this, crossing the road has become much like an adrenaline-inducing extreme sport, and you’ll be up for bigger challenges! I watched wide-eyed as a 5 year-old girl walk across a busy junction diagonally while motorcycles swerve around her!
All this may freak out the most pampered among city dwellers, but Ho Chi Minh has a certain old world charm that is hard to find in our rapidly commercialised societies: imagine diners of roadside hawkers eating on little plastic stools, young couples sitting on towels along the sidewalk with drinks, vendors selling knock-offs of Louis Vuitton bags etc. Then there are the relics from the past, such as a replica of the famous Notre Dame Cathedral with bricks specially imported from France.

Indeed, French culture still plays a large influence when it comes to defining high culture, from the classical architectural concepts to trendy sidewalk cafes. Restaurant singers perform a bunch of French pop songs in between Vietnamese, Chinese and English numbers. Then there are the museums and tourist locations dedicated to remembering the Vietnam War; the French tourists must be smug that their little ex-colony in south-east Asia whipped the Yankee’s asses so succinctly!
Which brings us back to the opera house: Somehow I can’t really imagine that the Pastas and Malibrans are willing to travel to these parts of the world by steam ship when they are equally in demand in Europe and the US, so its probably the lesser divas that have graced this stage. With that in mind, the architechs have built a really small house in the classic horseshoe shape, sitting probably no more than 600 with boxes lining the 2nd and 3rd storeys. I’m sure the accoustics must be wonderfully warm for the voice . Just think of the many wonderful performances of Carmen, Manon, Werther and other classics of the French rep being performed here 50 to 100 years ago. Intricate cornices and ornaments grace the stage pronicium (forget about projecting surtitles there!), complementing the humongous chandelier on the ceiling and the storey-high classical bare-breasted statues on the exterior. (unfortunately there was a rehearsal going on so I couldn’t take pictures of the interior.)
Lastly, Ho Chi Minh is also the first time I’ve experienced being hunted down by trannys pimping ‘real’ girls on moterbikes. Its certainly a unique culture where trannys work as pimps; they would spot single males strolling along the sidewalk, ride alongside them and pitch: “sir sir, you want young girl massage? (US)10 dollar only, very cheap!”, while the aforementioned young girl acts all sultry with hair tossing and boobie thrusting. They would then follow you along the sidewalk for a distance, sometimes even cutting into your way until you agree or in my case, make a run for it! I was approached by 4 more tranny-and-girl-on-bike teams in no more than 1 hour, but you can bet your last dollar that I wasn’t the least bit tempted



